Greenland
Back when the earth had no atmosphere, no water, no continents, and was just a ball of magma rolling through space, the first landmass to cool was Greenland. An ineffable, enigmatic land of extreme contrasts and vast antiquity, Greenland is the earth's largest island. 85% of it is covered with an enormous icecap, reaching two miles in thickness in the center, and glaciates down into the world's largest fjords. Even though only about 15% of it is not covered by the icecap, that thin strip of coastal land is still 14 times larger than Great Britain and has been settled by the polar eskimos, the Inuit, for over five thousand years. Then around the year 976, Eric the Red, having pissed off a lot of other Vikings, sought to escape Iceland with his head intact and sailed to Greenland.

Now under Danish rule, Greenland is still a place for only the hardiest of souls. I swear to you I have never been to a place that, having just stepped out of the airplane upon arrival, felt so much like being on some lonely distant planet, far away from the earth. The pictures below are of Tassilaq, in Ammasalik, East Greenland, a place that was only discovered by westerners in this century. The East Greenlandic language is incredible. To see it written, is to see words with over eighty letters, thirty syllables. This disappearing indigenous language is spoken by one of the smallest groups of native speakers and so is of great interest to linguists who occasionally come, as I did, to this land of volatile storms, whales, polar bears, impossibly blue waters, palpable silences, midnight suns and six month nights, pretty little houses and yes, incredible emerald green valleys sprinkled with millions of tiny arctic blossoms.






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Scott Fray
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